Gateway Market and the Vegetarian Tenderloin

Local Des Moines super-chef George Formaro is not afraid to put something a little bit different on the menu, and never forgets about the vegetarians. For Iowa State Fair time, three vegetarian versions of midway food classics are available at the Gateway Market Cafe. Along with a Seitan Gyro, and a Veggie Grinder, the Veggie Tenderloin is available through Fair Week until August 22nd. The Gateway Market website reads "George is crazy about the state fair..." and "even meat-eaters will find them fair-worthy". We'll see about that.

Location: 2002 Woodland Ave. in Historic Sherman Hill Des Moines. The west location at the Villages at Ponderosa, reviewed here, just recently closed

Directions: This is at the high traffic intersection of Woodland and Martin Luther King Jr.

Online at: http://www.gatewaymarket.com/


The "Tenderloin": First off, it looks like a tenderloin, but doesn't smell like fried pork. The menu describes this as "A monster veggie patty on an egg bun", and I don't understand the use of the huge, toasted sesame-seed bun. The veggy patty tastes likes its mostly made of beans along with some tiny white bits of what feels like tofu. There is a solid layer of fried bread crumb bits, but beneath lies a grey and dark mass that is mushy and just no fun to eat. The patty is thick and with the big bun and toppings it weighs over half a pound.

Price: $7.50, with fries.

Also on the menu: There is a diverse selection of high end food, like fresh raw-men noodles or an expensive hamburger.
Service: Counter service with food brought to your table.

Ambiance: Air conditioning, well-dressed erudite epicurean patrons, clean tables, a distinct absence of body odor or any other smell; its basically the exact polar opposite of the State Fair that inspired this sandwich.

Final Thoughts: I just don't see any appeal to this sandwich. Its nice that someone tried to give vegetarians a taste of a pork tenderloin, but this is like a veggie burger with less texture. There are some other "tenderloin" sandwiches made from other meats around Iowa, like a turkey tenderloin, that I may check out sometime. As a general rule, I would advise people to accept no substitutes for real Iowa pork.

Ted's Coney Island West in Urbandale

Ted's Coney Island has been serving Greek American fast food in Des Moines for decades, first downtown and later on Ingersoll Avenue. The Ingersoll location has advertised tenderloins on their sign but has served the pre-formed frozen ones for as long as I can remember. Their location in Urbandale has been around for just a couple years. Recently, a chalkboard reading NOW SERVING HOMEMADE TENDERLOINS appeared beside the menu board.



Location: 2667 86th St in Urbandale, in the Des Moines Suburbs. I thought this was in Clive, then I looked at a map and found out its in Urbandale.



Directions: This is in the Westmark Plaza II strip mall with Hobby Haven and its toy race car dirt track on the corner.

The Tenderloin: You get a real good size pork loin for your money, it feels like about eight ounces. The meat is only slightly tenderized, the grain is still visible. The breading forms a thick layer. The whole thing has good thickness, only thin on the edges. Fried to a golden brown with ketchup, mustard, onions, and pickles. Overall a good 7.0 out of ten.

Price: $4.85, add $3 to make a basket with fries, onion rings and slaw to make a complete meal.


Also on the menu: Greek American fast food favorites including gyros, coney dogs, grilled burgers, chili, and falafel.

Papa Joe's Pizza Loin: This sandwich includes a Italian Sausage patty with marinara sauce, mozzarella cheese, and Italian Peppers on top of a tenderloin. The Italian Sausage is served at more places in Des Moines than the pork tenderloin, so it is only natural to combine the two. Its priced to sell at $5.95.



Service: Its counter service with food brought to your table.

Ambiance: Both locations have an upscale fast food setting with high ceilings and good lighting. This place is not a dive.



Final thoughts: Its always good to see a restaurant replace a frozen tenderloin with a homemade one. The Pizza Loin is a good addition to the topped tenderloin selection, because it uses the next most popular sandwich in Des Moines. I would like to see the Ingersoll Avenue location serve these homemade sandwiches as well.

The Glenn in Manchester

I have visited Manchester several times before and had never found much of anything to eat beyond the Pizza Ranch before I found this place. Its tucked inside a high rise office building in downtown Manchester.

Location: 222 S. Franklin St. in Manchester, Eastern Iowa.

Directions: Its a block south of the main east-west street through the center of town, on the first floor of a tall building.

Online at: http://www.visittheglenn.com/

The Tenderloin: The dim lights meant my photos turned out poorly. The meat takes the classic three point pork loin cut shape. The menu describes this sandwich as "hand pressed", and a guy who looked like the manager or owner told me he personally presses the seasonings into each of the pork loins after tenderizing. What you get is layers of crunchiness in the breading and more noticeable taste in the seasoning. There were no gaps between the breading that occur in the larger, thicker tenderloins. Overall I prefer the thicker varieties, but this one was worth checking out 7.0 out of ten.

Price: $5.25 a la carte, served on a toasted bun..

Also on the Menu: Its the regular diner fare for breakfast and lunch with some Mexican entrees available for dinner. Since my visit they added a huge sandwich, the Westcott Tower, which they claim is the tallest sandwich in Delaware County.

Service: Table service seemed to be the only way to go.

Ambiance: This is another family restaurant that looks like it was decorated by someone's grandmother. They seem to pride themselves on cleanliness.


Final thoughts: The website claims The Glenn is "A Relaxing Place to Dine", and promotes the family friendly atmosphere. I can't argue with that. Their tenderloin takes an approach that is thin with pork but packed with crunchiness and seasoning. If there is a better tenderloin in Delaware County, I have not found it.

Stones Restaurant in Marshalltown

Stones Restaurant was a Roadfood Icon in central Iowa. Its classic sign sticks above the viaduct, reminding those driving by that this restaurant has been here so long it predates the modern road built above it. After closing earlier last decade, it briefly reopened by the Stones before closing again. Only in 2009 did a new ownership group attempt to bring this place back to life. "Since 1887" reads the front of the restaurant, and many people in the area have memories of eating here from long ago.

Location: 507 South 3rd Ave in Marshalltown, Central Iowa. Under the viaduct, beside the busy railroad tracks.

Directions: You have to drive around a corner if you are on the viaduct in order to reach the parking lot. There is an illustration on the business card.

Online at: http://www.stonesundertheviaduct.com/


The Tenderloin: This had a good size, decent thickness and looked clearly homemade. The breading became a little dusty. There seem to be parallel marks across the top from storage or something. The whole thing had good size and white meat. Served on a roll with all the fixins. Overall 7.0 out of ten.

Price: $6.50

Also on the menu: The lunch menu has diner classics on the menu like hot beef or smothered steak sandwiches along with homemade daily specials. The usual fried appetizers are not available here.

Service: Its only table service as far as I could tell.

Ambiance: The remodel and reopening work has made this place into a trip back in time. There are high ceilings and natural light, along with period music and vintage decorations.

Final Thoughts: People returning to a place that has been closed a few years may be in for some surprise changes. The Mile-High Lemon Merengue Pie, listed on the DM Register's 100 Things to Eat in Iowa Before You Die, is no longer on the menu. I am optimistic about the new owners and what they have done with the place. I was never able to visit here before it closed, but the remodeling and careful attention to atmosphere is noticeable. So many places like these close, it is rare to see one make a comeback. The tenderloin is alright. However, I left wishing I had tried one of the daily specials instead.

5th Ave. Diner in Coon Rapids

I was driving home on Highway 141 past Coon Rapids late one night. I saw a giant sign reading DINER, with some stoplight graphics. I figured it was worth stopping in to see what was goin on inside.

Location: 501 5th Ave. South in Coon Rapids in Carrol County, Western Iowa.

Directions: This place is literally just off Highway 141 on the main intersection south of town. Look for the sign.

The Tenderloin: For some reason they served this on a gigantic plate that made the sandwich look smaller than it really was. The menu described the meat as cut fresh daily, it did not appear to be tenderized to break the grain of the meat. However, the meat was soft and white. Served on an untoasted bun. A solid 7.5 out of ten rating.

Price: $4.50, a little more for the fixins.

Also on the menu: The typical diner fare with some odd stuff like a grilled marshmallow peanut butter sandwich or a giant hamburger. I opted for a fried cheese bits side dish.

Ambiance: This place has the same decorations as every other drive-in or one-stop on this highway with road signs and license plates nailed to the walls. There are tables and booths for seating.

Service: Its table service with space for a walk-up that wasn't in use when I visited during some kind of small town rush hour.

Final Thoughts: This sandwich wasn't exceptionally great by any approximation, and there are plenty of places to get one about as good along Highway 141. The Coon Rapids Country Club has a restaurant open seasonally next door that I may have to check out next time.

Goldie's Ice Cream Shoppe in Prairie City

In the few short years since this space was turned into Goldie's Ice Cream Shoppe, it has been featured in a Des Moines Register article about small town ice cream stands, then KCCI TV had their Cruising For Comfort Food feature visit here. Last October, the Iowa Pork Producers Association gave Goldies its coveted and prestigious Best Tenderloin in Award. The owner, Brad Magg, created his own catering company when he was still in High School. Since then he has taken over the ice cream shop, been elected to the City Council of nearby Colfax, and promoted a Demolition Derby all before turning 24 years old. His next step could be world domination, or perhaps an even bigger demolition derby.

Location: 304 W 2nd St in Prairie City, about 18 miles east of Des Moines in Jasper County, Central Iowa.

Directions: You take East University from Des Moines, it turns into Highway 163 and Goldies is just past Casey's from the Prairie City exit.

Online at: There is a facebook page

Award Winning Tenderloin

The Tenderloin: This has to be at least eight ounces after cooking. The lightly seasoned breading forms some gigantic crumbs on the edges. The meat is very tender with a consistent texture. According to the IPPA press release, the pork loin is cut and tenderized at the meat department at Fareway in Pleasant Hill. Served with all the fixings on a large untoasted bun. Overall 8.63 out of ten.

Mingo Special with Italian Sausage

The Mingo Special: this is made with seasoned Italian Sausage from the Mingo Locker, and a slice of provolone cheese on top. I had trouble trying to eat one of these while driving, the sausage was all over the place.

Magg Combo

The Magg Combo: This is a tenderloin topped with a cheeseburger. The ground beef is from the nearby family farm run by the Magg family, processed at the Mingo Locker. This one works better as a sandwich than the other combo deal. Each one gets a good melt job on top of the beef.

Price: $5.50 for the regular tenderloin a la carte, or $7.75 for one of the combo sandwiches. The prices haven't changed since at least 2008.

Also on the menu: There are daily specials to go with the usual burgers and salads, a full ice cream selection. The feature dessert item seems to be the Suicide Twister. The drive-thru window sells coffee in the morning. The menu used to have a note reading "we sell farm raised steaks!"

The PC Dog: This is a cheese stuffed hot dog wrapped in bacon:

PC Dog

The Chili Cheese Fries: these came in a little bowl. For a small extra price you can get lightly battered "Goldies Fries".

The Fried Cauliflower: I never forget the vegetables.

The Tenderloin Strips: This was described on the menu as a tenderloin without a bun, cut into strips. I guess this is for people allergic to buns, or on low carb diet plans:

Tenderloin Strips

Service: Its table service with mostly old ladies waiting tables. There is a walk-up window and drive-thru for ice cream orders. In the mornings this place serves coffee, PC PERK, from the drive-thru window.


Ambiance: Its not much from the outside, but the interior is brighter with the classic ice cream shop look, and specials written on a chalkboard. There are a few booths and tables, plus a counter for seating. When the weather is good you can sit at picnic tables outside. Since the IPPA award last fall, its been tough to get a place to sit.

Final Thoughts: I put this place on my own list of the best tenderloins near Des Moines after trying the two sandwiches that were tenderloins with toppings. I've seen the owner a few times running around the kitchen, and understand he is an advocate of small towns in Iowa. As a general rule, I think you get a better sandwich experience in the small town cafes and places like this then at any big or expensive restaurant in Des Moines. I recommend picking up the Magg Combo to anyone on the road to Pella.

Update April 2011:
Goldies was featured on the second season of IPTV's Iowa's Simple Pleasures, the above screengrab is the former owner and founder, Golda.
Check out the video here.
Or visit the show page:
http://www.iptv.org/simplepleasures/default.cfm

The Sandwich Shop, Smitty's in Albia

I've been to some low-key places in my lifetime of eating well, but some places are more low-key than others. This place is humble in its exterior, without a proper name visible from outside. The only lure to the non-local is the words "Sandwich Shop" beneath a Pepsi logo on an aged sign. The locals claim this is the best tenderloin in Iowa, so I had to check it out.


Location: 14 Benton Ave. W in Albia (population 3,706), Monroe County, Southern Iowa.


Directions: This place is just off the main square in Albia.

The Tenderloin: I think they make these in batches during the lunch rush, because they had mine ready in about thirty seconds. The large bun was not toasted. The meat was warm and steamy, and tender with bright white color. The downside is the breading had seperated from the meat entirely, coming off the meat in several places. This one gets a break because of the low price, its one of the better ones you can get for less than four dollars. Overall 7.0 out of 10.

Price: $3.75

Also on the menu: Its a short menu with burgers, beefburgers, and shakes.

Service: I went to the counter, but I think there is table service too. I think the owner was behind the counter when I was there. There is a drive-thru window for ordering from the alleyway.


Ambiance: This is a small town diner. There are booths and a counter for seating.

Final thoughts: This place in Albia with a sign that just reads "Sandwich Shop" has an affordable, if unexciting, tenderloin to offer. I haven't found another good tenderloin in Monroe County, or anyplace else near here.