Hank & Sharon's Giant Tenderloins Des Moines

Update: This place closed in 2010, it is now home to Jenny Grinder from the State Fair. Do not eat the tenderloin.

The wavy Tenderloin sign on the side of this take-out stand lets you know a serious sandwich lies inside.

Location: 3765 E Hubbell Ave. Des Moines.

Directions: On Highway 6, the main road from Des Moines to Altoona

The Tenderloin: This jumbo tenderloin is made from a butterfly cut 12 ounce pork tenderloin , not a tenderlized pork loin cut. It is wide and required three toothpicks to almost hold it within a paper wrapper. It has a recognizable butterfly shape, with large arms of crispy goodness extending outside the large Rotella Bun. It has a consistent depth across the entire Tenderloin, with only small brown edges coming to less than a quarter-inch thickness. The breading creates a crunchy layer of crumbs, many of these jump out of your sandwich and all over your car interior. This holds a solid and slightly tender middle layer while containing no moisture. The whole thing is salted afterward, which doesn't go too well with the dryness of the tenderloin. Rating 6.5/10

Postscript: This sandwich bothered me later in the day. I think its the huge amount of salt poured on the large surface area. My metabolism slowed down more than it does after most fried foods. This made me rethink my policy of always eating the largest thing on the menu at these places.

Price: $6.65, also comes in regular size at $5.50.
Ambiance: There are picnic tables on the pavement in front of the stand, but its only worthwhile if the weather is nice.

Service: The front window has been closed for years, now you either drive your car to one side or walk into the cluttered front area to give your order. Your sandwich is walked out to you at your car in about ten minutes.

Also on the Menu: Guinea Grinder sandwiches made of Italian Sausage, Cheese, and Peppers. Onion Rings, Chili Dogs.

Closing Comments: This place is good for takeouts. I take my sandwich back to my office to eat it. The Guinea Grinder is another special sandwich. Next time I will get the regular size Tenderloin. Plus they have a discount card so your 8th sandwich is free.

Jim's Coney Island Des Moines

This is one of several places calling themselves Coney Island in the Des Moines area. The south side of Des Moines is known more for its Italian food, but there are no shortage of working class food options at lunch time.

Location: 3700 SW 9th St. Des Moines, about 5 minutes south from downtown.

The Tenderloin: This was clearly made on-site, which made me excited before starting to eat it. Upon further inspection it has a couple flaws. I am not a fan of the thinnest tenderloins available, this was no exception. The loin is thicker on one side than the other, the meat is not as white as in other tenderloins in town, see picture. The middle layer of pork was not tender, but seemed to be just pressed together into the flat shape. There is little juice in the thick side, and no moisture at all on the thin side. The edges are thin, and it forms a flat disc shape around the bun, which is crunchy on every bite. The center is between a layer of ketchup at the bottom, and an onions with mustard mix on top. These soak into the breadcrumbs, making a not crunchy but most satisfying middle. The bun was toasted well, making the center enjoyable to eat. Overall 6/10.

Price: $4.25, also available is a "veggie tenderloin".

Ambiance: This is a "down-home" place, with wood paneling and mounted animals on the walls next to pictures of game. The non-smoking section is small, the bar area has ashtrays at every table but few were smoking.

Service: Counter service, at busy times the lady at the counter just screams the number on your receipt.

Also on the menu: loose-meat burgers, onion rings, steak sandwiches, chili.

Closing comment: My problem with the super-thin tenderloins is that you lose the tenderness in the process. Any tender part is beaten out of the pork loin. This is not the best in Des Moines, nor is it the best at a Coney Island place in Des Moines. But it is appreciated.

Mr. Bibbs Tenderloins 6th Avenue Des Moines

As recently as 50 Years ago North Des Moines was a prosperous suburb with the newest shopping centers and the best high-end restaurants in the area. Since then, it has been annexed by Des Moines, the suburban growth has moved to the west side of town, and the area north of University is about as rough as it gets. Although Sixth Avenue, and the River Bend area have been notorious locally for crime, new visitors will not think its rough by the standards of larger towns. Many local establishments persist here thanks to authentic food, dedicated patrons, and fierce neighborhood loyalty. Bibbs 6th Ave. is a joint just north of the Des Moines River which has survived the Flood of '93, and will be around for years to come.

Location: 2705 6th Ave. Des Moines

Directions: 6th Avenue is a busy street running north from Downtown to Interstate 80/35.

The Tenderloin: This was an honorable mention all-state tenderloin a couple years age. Its not hard to see why. The meat it not soggy, there is no juice dripping. The thickness varies slightly, while forming a good wave pattern seen from the side. The breading forms a crunchy texture which can be heard as you chew it. There is a layer of less-crisp breading underneath the crunchy parts. The middle is a tender layer of white meat. The areas around the bun are easily torn off for fast eating. It is served on a toasted bun with the usual fixings. Rating 9/10.

Price: $4.39, also available in "junior" size.

Ambiance: This place can be a mixed bag. During around the noon hour it is filled with surly teenagers from the nearby high school. Its mostly blue-collar types for the rest of the day. The exterior of the building is similar to everything else in this industrial part of town. There is faded, chipped paint, weeds growing through concrete, and litter. Inside is typical diner fare, with a few tables and some pictures on the walls.

Service: Counter service is from the same lady each time I've been there.

Also on the menu: Fried okra, cheeseburgers, and grilled tenderloins.

Closing Comment: This tenderloin is clearly worth the trip from downtown Des Moines.






Special Update 2009:

The Grilled Tenderloin: Not as good as the breaded tenderloin.
Mr Bibbs has closed and then re-opened again after the floods of 2008, check out this picture from just before the levy broke:

Crouse Cafe Indianola

Editors Note: This entry from October 2007 has been updated with pictures and detail from subsequent visits in 2011.

This is a family-owned eating place that has been in operation for nearly sixty-five years. The homemade Cherry Pie on the menu was listed in a Des Moines Register list of "100 things to Eat in Iowa Before You Die."

Location: 113 E. Salem in Indianola, just half a block SE of the square. Only a fifteen minute drive South from Des Moines.

Directions: Main road into town, Route 69, leads just a few blocks from this cafe. Follow signs to main square downtown.
The Tenderloin: This is clearly hand made, and lightly breaded. The loin is thin enough to have a wave shape, but is tender and juicy upon biting. There is some good asymmetry to the shape of the loin, but texture in continuous throughout. The frying leaves just the right amount of browning on the breading crumbs, and has a unique dark brown complexion. The bun is fresh made and soft but not toasted. With fries the meal overloads the plate. Verdict: 9.0/10

Price: $4.09 also available in a dinner with two sides. Ambiance: This is a very clean and well-lit place. There are family pictures and prints of farmers on the walls. Many locals were inside. The tables are slightly smaller than what you find in other restaurants, they are older fixtures that make these old cafes what they are.

Service: Several attentive waitresses took care of everything. They knew many patrons by name.

Also on the Menu: Highlights include fried chicken for dinner, hot beef sandwiches, and homemade fruit pies.

The Hot Beef Sandwich looks good too:

The Breakfast options are huge, including omelets and french toast, but I usually go with the Biscuits and Gravy:

Closing comments: this cafe is clearly worth finding when in Indianola. Its just a short drive from Des Moines, and there is something for everyone on the menu.

Cecil's Cafe in Marshalltown

Beneath a giant chicken sign lies a roadside cafe on the old Highway 30, now Iowa Avenue in Marshalltown. This place has clearly been here for a while, so I decided to check it out.

Location: Highway 30 & 14 Marshalltown, Iowa about 45 minutes drive northeast of Des Moines.

Directions: Cafe is 1 block north of major intersection of south Marshalltown. Go East on Iowa Avenue, less than one block to visible Cafe sign.

The Tenderloin: This was actually a little bit of a disappointment for my first blog post. It was relatively small and was dry in some areas. It was clearly from a freezer. This is more tasty than most tenderloins, as it was not overly processed. The tenderloin was only slightly asymetrical, and the texture was nothing special. As you can see, the buns were toasted well. Verdict: 3/10

Price: $3.40 for the Tenderloin, only one size available.

Ambiance: This roadside cafe is a true greasy-spoon diner. Few decorations aside from a wall with several mounted fish. Most of crowd looked like blue-collar regulars, coveralls are acceptable clothing here.

Service: Seat yourself with table service and a bar. Two elderly waitresses worked the small cafe, they were helpful.

Closing comments: This is an OK roadside cafe, its just not that great of a tenderloin.