Old 30 Grill in Jefferson

The Old 30 Grill Cafe in Jefferson looks like so many other Lincoln Highway side of the road stops for food. I don't think this place has been open too long, but there isn't much information available out there.


Location:505 East Lincolnway Street in Jefferson, Greene County, in Central Iowa. At the end of the Raccoon River Valley Bike Trail.

Directions: Lincolnway is the old Lincoln Highway and this place is 3 blocks East of the giant bell tower in the middle of Jefferson.


The Tenderloin: A nice golden brown color with spots of seasoning made the breading look delicious. The meat had a clear butterfly cut in the middle, and the size was a good six or seven ounces. Steam from inside the soft white inside had moved the breading off of the meat. The tenderizing seemed to take any firmness out of the cut of loin, and the edges drooped over the bun. Served on an untoasted flour-dusted bun. Overall 7.2 out of ten.

Price: $6.25 with fixings and a side.
Also on the menu: The menu is big with burgers and fried stuff.


Service: There is table service available but I went with a to go box from the counter.
Ambiance: Its an old building that has been renovated into a restaurant. The interior had some tables and a bar with transportation themed decorations. I chose the take my to-go box to the park at the end of the bike trail right beside the cafe.


Final Thoughts: I think the sign below was trying to say WE HAVE THE BEST LOINS IN TOWN. But I will have to go across Jefferson and try the Uptown Cafe on my next trip to Jefferson to make my own judgement.

Dairy Sweet in Dunlap

In anticipation of the IPPA annointing another tenderloin as "best in the state" next month, I decided to write up one the the previous top tenderloin award winners. The Dairy Sweet was awarded the IPPA Best Tenderloin award in 2005. The plaques on the walls claim they sold six thousand sandwiches in 2006, and up to twelve thousand in any given year after that. A local real estate company recently listed the property with a note reading "owners looking to retire". This place was listed as "permanently closed" on google maps, but I called and they are still open. I would assume they are staying open at least until their regular winter break at the end of October.

Location: 714 Iowa Ave. in Dunlap, Iowa (population 1,139) in Harrison County, Western Iowa. Its about 50 miles north of Council Bluffs.

Directions: This place is a block west of the Lincoln Highway on the main street through town. Look for the sign.
The Tenderloin: The first thing you notice is the thickness and the odd shape. Its clearly beaten into a sort of thick and wavy loin shape with large bumps and curling parts sticking out. The bright white meat is consistently tender throughout. No two ever look the same. The fine breading here may have the most taste packed inside that I have found. There is just a ton of what tastes like seasoning salt and black pepper in every crunchy bite. I would put this one only behind The Augusta in Oxford among the tenderloins awarded by the IPPA. Overall 9.374 out of ten.

Price: $4.95
Also on the menu: Its surprisingly big with a full ice-cream selection, burgers, fried stuff and taco salads.

Service: Its counter service with a walk-up or drive-thru window on the side. It looked like three teenagers and one adult running the show when I visited.
Ambiance: This is another small town ice-cream shop with small tables in a cramped interior and picnic seating outside. I think there were jigsaw puzzles hung on the walls inside.

Final thoughts: Both of my visits to the Dairy Sweet have been special experiences while driving through the more scenic part of Western Iowa. Its really heartbreaking to see a place like this might be closing down, although I get the idea the owners are getting old and are ready to move on. Hopefully new owners can keep the tenderloin recipe intact. I really doubt any small town ice-cream shop ever suffers from a lack of business, especially over a hot summer.

Stones Restaurant in Marshalltown

Stones Restaurant was a Roadfood Icon in central Iowa. Its classic sign sticks above the viaduct, reminding those driving by that this restaurant has been here so long it predates the modern road built above it. After closing earlier last decade, it briefly reopened by the Stones before closing again. Only in 2009 did a new ownership group attempt to bring this place back to life. "Since 1887" reads the front of the restaurant, and many people in the area have memories of eating here from long ago.

Location: 507 South 3rd Ave in Marshalltown, Central Iowa. Under the viaduct, beside the busy railroad tracks.

Directions: You have to drive around a corner if you are on the viaduct in order to reach the parking lot. There is an illustration on the business card.

Online at: http://www.stonesundertheviaduct.com/


The Tenderloin: This had a good size, decent thickness and looked clearly homemade. The breading became a little dusty. There seem to be parallel marks across the top from storage or something. The whole thing had good size and white meat. Served on a roll with all the fixins. Overall 7.0 out of ten.

Price: $6.50

Also on the menu: The lunch menu has diner classics on the menu like hot beef or smothered steak sandwiches along with homemade daily specials. The usual fried appetizers are not available here.

Service: Its only table service as far as I could tell.

Ambiance: The remodel and reopening work has made this place into a trip back in time. There are high ceilings and natural light, along with period music and vintage decorations.

Final Thoughts: People returning to a place that has been closed a few years may be in for some surprise changes. The Mile-High Lemon Merengue Pie, listed on the DM Register's 100 Things to Eat in Iowa Before You Die, is no longer on the menu. I am optimistic about the new owners and what they have done with the place. I was never able to visit here before it closed, but the remodeling and careful attention to atmosphere is noticeable. So many places like these close, it is rare to see one make a comeback. The tenderloin is alright. However, I left wishing I had tried one of the daily specials instead.

Dairy Mart in Glidden

From the outside, Dairy Mart has all of the looks of a classic Lincoln Highway roadside Ice-Cream shack. The signs covering the building mention homemade tenderloins at least three times in large letters. This was not the kind of place I could just drive past. According to Wikipedia, Glidden is the hometown of Merle Hay, the man the mall in Des Moines was named after. Unfortunately, I forgot to take a photo of a giant rooster across the parking lot.

Location: Google maps only lists a post office box, but one online index says 325 E 9th, but its on Highway 30 in Glidden, (population 1,253) in Carroll County, Western Iowa.


Directions: This is on the road to Carroll. Its on the south side of the highway, just east of town. Look for the rooster, or the giant ice-cream cone on top of the building.

The Tenderloin: This was a pretty good size, about eight ounces after cooking, for the price they ask for. The grain of the pork loin was still present after tenderizing, the whole thing just wasn't that tender. The thin pork bent upwards and extended just beyond the bun. The signs advertise this as a great homemade tenderloin, but its more of a value model based on my sample. Overall 7.0 out of ten.
Price: $4.19


Also on the menu: Broasted Chicken, Burgers, and a full ice-cream and malt dessert selection. I suspect the Triple Veggie Burger is just three hamburgers topped with vegetables.
Service: There is table and counter service inside, and a walk-up window during the summer.


Ambiance: The owner takes good care of this place to keep it looking like a classic Lincoln Highway stop for food and ice-cream. The inside is a little cramped with smaller tables and seats, but that is just how authentic roadside places are.
Final thoughts: The Dairy Mart is a well-maintained and classic-looking ice-cream stand beside the Lincoln Highway. The tenderloin is homemade, but not really anything special. This place is worth stopping in for the Ice-Cream or other menu items. There are a few restaurants in Carroll I need to check out on my next trip to this part of Iowa.

BK's Sports Bar & Grill in Ogden

I think I had tried at least four places in Boone looking for homemade tenderloin, but couldn't find one. Just down the highway in Ogden is a legendary giant tenderloin. Its at a small sports bar that has changed location a few times, but perseveres and stays in business for the small town of Ogden Iowa.

Location: 113 E. Walnut St in Ogden in Boone County.

Directions: Walnut St. is the Old Lincoln Highway route through town, so take the Old Highway 30 or drive straight up 1st street from the Highway 30/169 junction south of town.

The Tenderloin: The tenderloin is nearly too big for the take-away box, with the fixins and bun hidden underneath. This was one big piece of pork loin in the usual triangle shape that was bright white inside. The meat was uneven in thickness but remained moist throughout. The thick breading and toasted bun gave this plenty of crunchiness. Overall 8/10

Price: $6.65, with fixins and a side.

Also on the menu: Large menu includes full breakfast and lunch that has burgers and the usual fried appetizers.

Service: There is table service, but I went to the bar because the dining area wasn't busy when I stopped by.

Ambiance: There's a well-lit dining area in front with a darker bar area in the back. The walls are decorated with sports junk and a picture of Elvis.
Final Thoughts: This was referred to on the menu as a fritter but its clearly a homemade tenderloin. The folks at BK's can be proud of this one.