Ellie's Soda Fountain & Sundry in Montezuma

Driving through the town square on the state highway on a snowy day, this tiny place caught the corner of my eye. The sign on the side reads "homemade tenderloins", that was enough to pull me off the road and into this establishment.


Location: 211 E. 2nd St. Montezuma, on the northwest corner of the square.
Montezuma Iowa (population 1,440 in the 2000 Census) is the seat of Poweshiek County on the eastern edge of Central Iowa.


Directions: Montezuma is in the south central part of Poweshiek County, take the highway 63 turnoff from the interstate about 6 miles south to Main St./HWY 85 a few blocks into town.The Tenderloin: This is close to thes epitome of the super-thin tenderloin sandwich. It has clearly been pounded into submission before breading and frying. The fat has mostly been trimmed but has a few small chewy parts in the thick areas on one side. The meat to breading ratio is skewed by the large surfare area. It is nicely browned with plenty of crunchyness and crumbs falling everywhere. I have to admit that the cracker-thin tenderloins just don't do it for me. There just isn't enough tender pork to bite into when its pounded this thin. This is served on a toasted bun with the fixings on the side. Overall 6.5/10Price: $5.23 total also available in half-size for $3.75

Also on the Menu: Soda Fountain malts and ice-cream, along with deli-style sandwiches and loose-meat burgers.

Service: I think the owner of the store took my order and went in back to start the tenderloin. Another employee showed up later. Each seemed to know their customers by name.

Ambiance: The front of the store is a food counter, the back is split between a kitchen and stock of paint supplies materials. The walls are covered in paint brushes and graphic t-sirts in the dining area.

Final Thoughts: I was lucky to find this place when I was driving in the middle of a snowstorm in January. Many ice-cream and soda fountain places close for the winter and re-open about when school is let out. If you like wide and thin tenderloins, this one is for you.

Townhouse Supper Club in Wellsburg

The area between Iowa Falls and Waterloo is home to the Townhouse Supper Club in Wellsburg. The winner of the 2006 IPPA Pork Tenderloin Sandwich Competition is found here. Since Highway 20 was rerouted a few years back, this place is now closer to the state highway. This is a town you won't want to drive past.

Location: 520 North Adams St. in Wellsburg (population 716 in 2000 Census), on the edge of Grundy County a couple hours drive north and east of Des Moines.

Directions: Take Highway 20 between Iowa Falls and Waterloo, go south at Wellsburg exit, look for tenderloin sign in picture.
The Tenderloin: The first thing you notice about this is how thick it gets. It must be an inch thick at one side of the sandwich. The breading is exceedingly crunchy with many crumbs falling out. The meat is tenderized, but still firm, forming its own layer which separates from the breading on both sides upon entering your mouth. It will take a while to chew through any bite of the thick portion. There was a moderate amount of fatty parts in the tenderloin which don't take too much away from the sandwich. Served with fixings on a toasted bun. 9.0/10
Price: $7.25 for dinner with side, $4.80 a la carte during lunch.

Also on the menu: Regular diner fare, including burgers, steaks, fish, chicken, and onion rings.

Service: Seat yourself with waitresses always closeby.

Ambiance: There is pride in the tenderloin, evidenced by the clearly displayed newspaper clipping of the IPPA award. Tank tops and shirts pronouncing the best tenderloin award are everywhere. The wood-paneled walls are covered in pictures of race cars. Speed Network is playing on the TV in front. Many patrons were making orders for takeaway.


Final Thoughts: This is an amazing tenderloin. It is definitely worth turning off of the state highway. It is incredibly thick and big. This establishment is closed from 3 to 5PM, so plan accordingly. There must be some form of small industrial organization here, as they claim to have sold over seventeen thousand tenderloins in just over two years. This is in a town of just over seven hundred people. The owners of this place take it on the road in for County and State Fairs, it may come to a town near you. If that won't happen soon enough, you can order by mail from their website: http://townhousesupperclub.com/index.htm

KC BBQ Des Moines

This Eastside restaurant has recently added the Breaded Pork Tenderloin Sandwich to their menu. As you can see by the pictures, they promoted its homemade status. They take their barbecue seriously, and already had one pork sandwich on their menu the last time I visited. KC BBQ has persevered while other small-time barbecue restaurants have had to cut back to catering exclusively.

Location: 205 E. 14th St. Wedged between Arby's and Burger King, east of State of Iowa office buildings and south of Mexican business main street on Grand Ave. This building once contained a Maid-Rite.

The Tenderloin: This was unique in two ways. The first was its cut of pork. The close-up picture shows a very thin cut that appears not to have been pounded by any mallet or tenderizer, you can see a very smooth surface to the pork cut. It is thin, but maintains a tenderness that other thin tenderloins do not. The second unique characteristic is the lightly seasoned breading. There is a hint of pepper that reminds me only of what fried chicken gets dipped in. The breading separates itself from the pork quickly, giving you two different flavors. I took one sandwich home with me and found it had something like a butterfly shape. The thin sandwich made a clear wavy pattern when seen from across. This is served with pickles, ketchup and mustard on a toasted bun. Overall a 7.5

Price: $4.75 with fries in a basket, available in multiple topping varieties for extra charge.

Service: Counter service, if no crowd is around then they will take food to your table.

Also on the Menu: Barbecue favorites like smoked ribs, burnt-ends sandwich, and baked beans.

Ambiance: There is a sizable lunch crowd from the nearby office buildings. Combined with the slow service there will be long lines to order, and you will stand waiting for your number to be called. Some smoke drifts into the dining area, which is brightly lit with generic food posters. Garish window painting colors the light that enters from the storefront. Outdoor picnic tables are covered in snow, and very close to busy street.

Final Thoughts: This was definitely a unique tenderloin. It was both thin and tender, and clearly homemade. The seasoned breading makes it a worthy addition to the Des Moines tenderloin scene. Their 2 for price of 1 coupon compelled me to visit before the end of the year, and I was surprised by the results.

Update 1/4/2009

Since I had last visited this place over a year ago, some things had changed and then changed again. The original owner had sold up, and the new operator was, by many accounts, not the same quality. Since then there has been a fire, a closing for at least a month, and the return of the original owner.

The ambiance is exactly the same, but since the smoking ban this is now the smokiest restaurant in town. I can only guess Edzall has plans to stay in business, he displays his trademarks on the wall. Evidently, nobody else can use the phrase "Wisconsin Dog" while doing business here in Iowa.

In researching an upcoming post about tenderloins at BBQ joints, I had to check out the Big Pig. Its topped with sauced-up pulled pork. The unusual shape of the tenderloin means it is most likely made on-site. The breading sticks to the meat know, not falling off like chicken skin. The tenderloin is not as tender as I remember it. Its still worth trying.

Formaro's Okey Dokey Restaurant & Bar Des Moines

This neighborhood restaurant clearly states that its ingredients are fresh and food is made from scratch recipes. You can see the tenderizer through the kitchen door when walking in, any visitor can expect a fresh tenderloin. The menu prominently uses the American and Italian flags, both cuisines are represented on the large menu.

Location: 2700 E. 17th Des Moines. At the Corner of East 17th and Easton Blvd.

The Tenderloin: The large size is a half pound pork loin cut inside the cafe and hand breaded. There is a good asymmetrical shape and nice uneven depth. It ranges from thick in the center of the loin shape to just a bit thinner outside the bun. The thick parts had a little more chewy fat in my sandwich. The breading is modestly crunchy, and doesn't separate from the pork inside. Moisture is inside the tenderloin and does not form drips. This is served with the fixings thrown on top, other places charge for that. Served on a freshly baked toasted bun which is warm throughout and nearly as large as the tenderloin. Overall: A magnifico 7/10 .

Price: $6.95 with fries or onion rings (homemade). Also available in 1/4 lb. Size for $4.95 or served with chili or cheese for an extra charge. Italian Tenderloin with sausage, onions, peppers, and cheese also available.

Service: Table service, although you are never far from the counter.

Also on the Menu: Loose-meat burgers, Italian sausage sandwiches, pizza, ribs, and Italian dishes like Manicotti Formaggio and chicken tortellini.

Ambiance: The eating area is small, and the colors of all the tables and chairs don't go too well together. Plants are hanging around, and there is a flat screen TV. This is a neighborhood hole in the wall on Des Moines Eastside.

Final verdict: This is a nice neighborhood family restaurant with a good and fresh tenderloin. The menu clearly states Real Tenderloin, and does not disappoint. Don't be fooled by the sign marked Gifts and Snacks, this is a full bar and restaurant.

Waveland Cafe Des Moines

The Waveland is a neighborhood institution on the west side of Des Moines, I have been sent here by plenty of people who know I am looking for tenderloins. Its the kind of place which presidential hopefuls visit to "get in touch" with the common people. Sadly, I would never vote for this tenderloin.

Location: 4708 University Ave. in the West side of Des Moines.


Directions: Just drive west on University Ave, on the way to Windsor Heights.

The Tenderloin: The menu tells me this is hand breaded. The sandwich tasted like a total bummer or a mass-produced frozen tenderloin. There was the usual amount of juice inside with the frozen-in aftertase. There was nothing chewy or notable to take your attention while eating this. The tenderloin displayed the classic asymmetrical shape, this one was like a mitten shape with a thumb on the side. The complete flatness of the tenderloin was clear. The breading was nothing special, but it did cover what was just your basic food supplier pork loin cut. Served on a toasted bun. Overall 2/10

Price: $7.25 with fries, its not cheap.

Service: table service with waitresses who always seem to be busy.

Ambiance: The dinner area is painted brightly, and there is always something noisy going on. The weekend and after-church crowd will form a line out the door for breakfast.

Also on the Menu: Hot beef sandwiches, several breakfast items sold any time.

Closing Comments: This is a nice diner with a dedicated following, just don't order the tenderloin.

Original Coney Island Des Moines Skywalk

This is a Skywalk lunch rush institution.

Location: 501 Locust St. 2nd Floor, Des Moines, in Skywalk.
Directions: Enter building through parking ramp and go up stairs or elevator, skywalk intersection is in middle of the building.

The Tenderloin: This is a huge piece of pork loin. It measures just under nine inches at its widest point. There is considerable depth as well, with over a quarter inch thickness throughout. The breading has a light layer of crumbs, and just a little crunch. The breading layer does not separate from the meat inside. There is some moisture, but no dripping of juice from inside. The tenderloin is not made of the leanest cut of pork. Many parts of fat will provide a little resistance while biting and will take a while to chew. Served with ketchup, mustard and onions on a toasted bun. Overall a very impressive 9/10

Special Note: This comes in a different shape each time I order one. Its not always in the pork loin shape seen in these pictures. Sometimes its pounded into a rounder, wider shape.

Price: $4.79, available in a "value basket" with onion rings, fries, and coleslaw for $7.29 actually served in two baskets.

Service: Just counter service with your receipt number screamed when your order is ready.

Ambiance: There are pink neon lights everywhere, and the eating area is lit brightly. A TV plays soap operas all day. The smoking section was closed a few years ago, previously smoke would float everywhere.

Also on the Menu: Loose meat burgers, gyros, hot dogs, onion rings, walking tacos.

Closing Comments: This Skywalk diner suffers the same fate as any place in the Des Moines Skywalk. Its busy during the workday, and may have a line going to the door during the lunch rush. Its nearly abandoned after five and on weekends. The tenderloin is huge and thick, what else could you want..
Update: This placed closed in the summer of 2008.

Bibbs East 14th St. Des Moines

This African-American owned restaurant recently relocated to the East Side from its old home in the Drake Neighborhood.

Location: 1246 E. 14th St, Des Moines

Directions: 2 blocks north of freeway exit on East 14th and University.

The Tenderloin: This is clearly a homemade tenderloin, pounded thin into an asymmetrical shape. The tenderloin was thinner in some parts than others, with "cracks" in its shape forming short arms. There was a small hole in the center from being beaten too hard. The breading uses generous amounts of flour, and keeps a powdery texture. There is no crunch upon biting, but the breading does stick to your mouth. The pork is tender and moist without being juicy. The edges are easily pulled apart from the area beneath the bun. It is served on a toasted bun, with onions suspended in ketchup and mustard on top. Overall: 6/10.
Price: $4.99 With Fries, also available Deluxe Tenderloin with tomato, lettuce etc. for $5.49.

Service: Counter service with food brought to your table when its not busy inside. The food takes time to prepare, many may be waiting at the same time in front of the counter.


Ambiance: the old location was mostly wood paneling and pictures of Martin Luther King. The new location was a Mexican restaurant, and has not been remodeled. There is a purple and orange color scheme with Mayan Pyramid shapes carved into the stalls and pictures of Jesus everywhere. The strip mall contains places for Thai and Vietnamese food, along with many empty areas.
The word Mexican has been removed from the Mexican Food sign.
Also on the menu: Fried Chicken, Catfish, Beef Brisket, BBQ Sandwiches, Okra, Red Beans and Rice, Philly Steak, Grinders and much more.

Closing Comments: The location has changed but the Tenderloin remains the same. Its good, but too thin and powdery. The problems with the decor will be remedied soon enough.