KC BBQ Des Moines

This Eastside restaurant has recently added the Breaded Pork Tenderloin Sandwich to their menu. As you can see by the pictures, they promoted its homemade status. They take their barbecue seriously, and already had one pork sandwich on their menu the last time I visited. KC BBQ has persevered while other small-time barbecue restaurants have had to cut back to catering exclusively.

Location: 205 E. 14th St. Wedged between Arby's and Burger King, east of State of Iowa office buildings and south of Mexican business main street on Grand Ave. This building once contained a Maid-Rite.

The Tenderloin: This was unique in two ways. The first was its cut of pork. The close-up picture shows a very thin cut that appears not to have been pounded by any mallet or tenderizer, you can see a very smooth surface to the pork cut. It is thin, but maintains a tenderness that other thin tenderloins do not. The second unique characteristic is the lightly seasoned breading. There is a hint of pepper that reminds me only of what fried chicken gets dipped in. The breading separates itself from the pork quickly, giving you two different flavors. I took one sandwich home with me and found it had something like a butterfly shape. The thin sandwich made a clear wavy pattern when seen from across. This is served with pickles, ketchup and mustard on a toasted bun. Overall a 7.5

Price: $4.75 with fries in a basket, available in multiple topping varieties for extra charge.

Service: Counter service, if no crowd is around then they will take food to your table.

Also on the Menu: Barbecue favorites like smoked ribs, burnt-ends sandwich, and baked beans.

Ambiance: There is a sizable lunch crowd from the nearby office buildings. Combined with the slow service there will be long lines to order, and you will stand waiting for your number to be called. Some smoke drifts into the dining area, which is brightly lit with generic food posters. Garish window painting colors the light that enters from the storefront. Outdoor picnic tables are covered in snow, and very close to busy street.

Final Thoughts: This was definitely a unique tenderloin. It was both thin and tender, and clearly homemade. The seasoned breading makes it a worthy addition to the Des Moines tenderloin scene. Their 2 for price of 1 coupon compelled me to visit before the end of the year, and I was surprised by the results.

Update 1/4/2009

Since I had last visited this place over a year ago, some things had changed and then changed again. The original owner had sold up, and the new operator was, by many accounts, not the same quality. Since then there has been a fire, a closing for at least a month, and the return of the original owner.

The ambiance is exactly the same, but since the smoking ban this is now the smokiest restaurant in town. I can only guess Edzall has plans to stay in business, he displays his trademarks on the wall. Evidently, nobody else can use the phrase "Wisconsin Dog" while doing business here in Iowa.

In researching an upcoming post about tenderloins at BBQ joints, I had to check out the Big Pig. Its topped with sauced-up pulled pork. The unusual shape of the tenderloin means it is most likely made on-site. The breading sticks to the meat know, not falling off like chicken skin. The tenderloin is not as tender as I remember it. Its still worth trying.

Formaro's Okey Dokey Restaurant & Bar Des Moines

This neighborhood restaurant clearly states that its ingredients are fresh and food is made from scratch recipes. You can see the tenderizer through the kitchen door when walking in, any visitor can expect a fresh tenderloin. The menu prominently uses the American and Italian flags, both cuisines are represented on the large menu.

Location: 2700 E. 17th Des Moines. At the Corner of East 17th and Easton Blvd.

The Tenderloin: The large size is a half pound pork loin cut inside the cafe and hand breaded. There is a good asymmetrical shape and nice uneven depth. It ranges from thick in the center of the loin shape to just a bit thinner outside the bun. The thick parts had a little more chewy fat in my sandwich. The breading is modestly crunchy, and doesn't separate from the pork inside. Moisture is inside the tenderloin and does not form drips. This is served with the fixings thrown on top, other places charge for that. Served on a freshly baked toasted bun which is warm throughout and nearly as large as the tenderloin. Overall: A magnifico 7/10 .

Price: $6.95 with fries or onion rings (homemade). Also available in 1/4 lb. Size for $4.95 or served with chili or cheese for an extra charge. Italian Tenderloin with sausage, onions, peppers, and cheese also available.

Service: Table service, although you are never far from the counter.

Also on the Menu: Loose-meat burgers, Italian sausage sandwiches, pizza, ribs, and Italian dishes like Manicotti Formaggio and chicken tortellini.

Ambiance: The eating area is small, and the colors of all the tables and chairs don't go too well together. Plants are hanging around, and there is a flat screen TV. This is a neighborhood hole in the wall on Des Moines Eastside.

Final verdict: This is a nice neighborhood family restaurant with a good and fresh tenderloin. The menu clearly states Real Tenderloin, and does not disappoint. Don't be fooled by the sign marked Gifts and Snacks, this is a full bar and restaurant.

Bibbs East 14th St. Des Moines

This African-American owned restaurant recently relocated to the East Side from its old home in the Drake Neighborhood.

Location: 1246 E. 14th St, Des Moines

Directions: 2 blocks north of freeway exit on East 14th and University.

The Tenderloin: This is clearly a homemade tenderloin, pounded thin into an asymmetrical shape. The tenderloin was thinner in some parts than others, with "cracks" in its shape forming short arms. There was a small hole in the center from being beaten too hard. The breading uses generous amounts of flour, and keeps a powdery texture. There is no crunch upon biting, but the breading does stick to your mouth. The pork is tender and moist without being juicy. The edges are easily pulled apart from the area beneath the bun. It is served on a toasted bun, with onions suspended in ketchup and mustard on top. Overall: 6/10.
Price: $4.99 With Fries, also available Deluxe Tenderloin with tomato, lettuce etc. for $5.49.

Service: Counter service with food brought to your table when its not busy inside. The food takes time to prepare, many may be waiting at the same time in front of the counter.


Ambiance: the old location was mostly wood paneling and pictures of Martin Luther King. The new location was a Mexican restaurant, and has not been remodeled. There is a purple and orange color scheme with Mayan Pyramid shapes carved into the stalls and pictures of Jesus everywhere. The strip mall contains places for Thai and Vietnamese food, along with many empty areas.
The word Mexican has been removed from the Mexican Food sign.
Also on the menu: Fried Chicken, Catfish, Beef Brisket, BBQ Sandwiches, Okra, Red Beans and Rice, Philly Steak, Grinders and much more.

Closing Comments: The location has changed but the Tenderloin remains the same. Its good, but too thin and powdery. The problems with the decor will be remedied soon enough.