Wednesday, October 24, 2007

Jim's Coney Island Des Moines

This is one of several places calling themselves Coney Island in the Des Moines area. The south side of Des Moines is known more for its Italian food, but there are no shortage of working class food options at lunch time.

Location: 3700 SW 9th St. Des Moines, about 5 minutes south from downtown.

The Tenderloin: This was clearly made on-site, which made me excited before starting to eat it. Upon further inspection it has a couple flaws. I am not a fan of the thinnest tenderloins available, this was no exception. The loin is thicker on one side than the other, the meat is not as white as in other tenderloins in town, see picture. The middle layer of pork was not tender, but seemed to be just pressed together into the flat shape. There is little juice in the thick side, and no moisture at all on the thin side. The edges are thin, and it forms a flat disc shape around the bun, which is crunchy on every bite. The center is between a layer of ketchup at the bottom, and an onions with mustard mix on top. These soak into the breadcrumbs, making a not crunchy but most satisfying middle. The bun was toasted well, making the center enjoyable to eat. Overall 6/10.

Price: $4.25, also available is a "veggie tenderloin".

Ambiance: This is a "down-home" place, with wood paneling and mounted animals on the walls next to pictures of game. The non-smoking section is small, the bar area has ashtrays at every table but few were smoking.

Service: Counter service, at busy times the lady at the counter just screams the number on your receipt.

Also on the menu: loose-meat burgers, onion rings, steak sandwiches, chili.

Closing comment: My problem with the super-thin tenderloins is that you lose the tenderness in the process. Any tender part is beaten out of the pork loin. This is not the best in Des Moines, nor is it the best at a Coney Island place in Des Moines. But it is appreciated.

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