Goldie's Ice Cream Shoppe in Prairie City

In the few short years since this space was turned into Goldie's Ice Cream Shoppe, it has been featured in a Des Moines Register article about small town ice cream stands, then KCCI TV had their Cruising For Comfort Food feature visit here. Last October, the Iowa Pork Producers Association gave Goldies its coveted and prestigious Best Tenderloin in Award. The owner, Brad Magg, created his own catering company when he was still in High School. Since then he has taken over the ice cream shop, been elected to the City Council of nearby Colfax, and promoted a Demolition Derby all before turning 24 years old. His next step could be world domination, or perhaps an even bigger demolition derby.

Location: 304 W 2nd St in Prairie City, about 18 miles east of Des Moines in Jasper County, Central Iowa.

Directions: You take East University from Des Moines, it turns into Highway 163 and Goldies is just past Casey's from the Prairie City exit.

Online at: There is a facebook page

Award Winning Tenderloin

The Tenderloin: This has to be at least eight ounces after cooking. The lightly seasoned breading forms some gigantic crumbs on the edges. The meat is very tender with a consistent texture. According to the IPPA press release, the pork loin is cut and tenderized at the meat department at Fareway in Pleasant Hill. Served with all the fixings on a large untoasted bun. Overall 8.63 out of ten.

Mingo Special with Italian Sausage

The Mingo Special: this is made with seasoned Italian Sausage from the Mingo Locker, and a slice of provolone cheese on top. I had trouble trying to eat one of these while driving, the sausage was all over the place.

Magg Combo

The Magg Combo: This is a tenderloin topped with a cheeseburger. The ground beef is from the nearby family farm run by the Magg family, processed at the Mingo Locker. This one works better as a sandwich than the other combo deal. Each one gets a good melt job on top of the beef.

Price: $5.50 for the regular tenderloin a la carte, or $7.75 for one of the combo sandwiches. The prices haven't changed since at least 2008.

Also on the menu: There are daily specials to go with the usual burgers and salads, a full ice cream selection. The feature dessert item seems to be the Suicide Twister. The drive-thru window sells coffee in the morning. The menu used to have a note reading "we sell farm raised steaks!"

The PC Dog: This is a cheese stuffed hot dog wrapped in bacon:

PC Dog

The Chili Cheese Fries: these came in a little bowl. For a small extra price you can get lightly battered "Goldies Fries".

The Fried Cauliflower: I never forget the vegetables.

The Tenderloin Strips: This was described on the menu as a tenderloin without a bun, cut into strips. I guess this is for people allergic to buns, or on low carb diet plans:

Tenderloin Strips

Service: Its table service with mostly old ladies waiting tables. There is a walk-up window and drive-thru for ice cream orders. In the mornings this place serves coffee, PC PERK, from the drive-thru window.


Ambiance: Its not much from the outside, but the interior is brighter with the classic ice cream shop look, and specials written on a chalkboard. There are a few booths and tables, plus a counter for seating. When the weather is good you can sit at picnic tables outside. Since the IPPA award last fall, its been tough to get a place to sit.

Final Thoughts: I put this place on my own list of the best tenderloins near Des Moines after trying the two sandwiches that were tenderloins with toppings. I've seen the owner a few times running around the kitchen, and understand he is an advocate of small towns in Iowa. As a general rule, I think you get a better sandwich experience in the small town cafes and places like this then at any big or expensive restaurant in Des Moines. I recommend picking up the Magg Combo to anyone on the road to Pella.

Update April 2011:
Goldies was featured on the second season of IPTV's Iowa's Simple Pleasures, the above screengrab is the former owner and founder, Golda.
Check out the video here.
Or visit the show page:
http://www.iptv.org/simplepleasures/default.cfm

The Sandwich Shop, Smitty's in Albia

I've been to some low-key places in my lifetime of eating well, but some places are more low-key than others. This place is humble in its exterior, without a proper name visible from outside. The only lure to the non-local is the words "Sandwich Shop" beneath a Pepsi logo on an aged sign. The locals claim this is the best tenderloin in Iowa, so I had to check it out.


Location: 14 Benton Ave. W in Albia (population 3,706), Monroe County, Southern Iowa.


Directions: This place is just off the main square in Albia.

The Tenderloin: I think they make these in batches during the lunch rush, because they had mine ready in about thirty seconds. The large bun was not toasted. The meat was warm and steamy, and tender with bright white color. The downside is the breading had seperated from the meat entirely, coming off the meat in several places. This one gets a break because of the low price, its one of the better ones you can get for less than four dollars. Overall 7.0 out of 10.

Price: $3.75

Also on the menu: Its a short menu with burgers, beefburgers, and shakes.

Service: I went to the counter, but I think there is table service too. I think the owner was behind the counter when I was there. There is a drive-thru window for ordering from the alleyway.


Ambiance: This is a small town diner. There are booths and a counter for seating.

Final thoughts: This place in Albia with a sign that just reads "Sandwich Shop" has an affordable, if unexciting, tenderloin to offer. I haven't found another good tenderloin in Monroe County, or anyplace else near here.

Dairy Mart in Glidden

From the outside, Dairy Mart has all of the looks of a classic Lincoln Highway roadside Ice-Cream shack. The signs covering the building mention homemade tenderloins at least three times in large letters. This was not the kind of place I could just drive past. According to Wikipedia, Glidden is the hometown of Merle Hay, the man the mall in Des Moines was named after. Unfortunately, I forgot to take a photo of a giant rooster across the parking lot.

Location: Google maps only lists a post office box, but one online index says 325 E 9th, but its on Highway 30 in Glidden, (population 1,253) in Carroll County, Western Iowa.


Directions: This is on the road to Carroll. Its on the south side of the highway, just east of town. Look for the rooster, or the giant ice-cream cone on top of the building.

The Tenderloin: This was a pretty good size, about eight ounces after cooking, for the price they ask for. The grain of the pork loin was still present after tenderizing, the whole thing just wasn't that tender. The thin pork bent upwards and extended just beyond the bun. The signs advertise this as a great homemade tenderloin, but its more of a value model based on my sample. Overall 7.0 out of ten.
Price: $4.19


Also on the menu: Broasted Chicken, Burgers, and a full ice-cream and malt dessert selection. I suspect the Triple Veggie Burger is just three hamburgers topped with vegetables.
Service: There is table and counter service inside, and a walk-up window during the summer.


Ambiance: The owner takes good care of this place to keep it looking like a classic Lincoln Highway stop for food and ice-cream. The inside is a little cramped with smaller tables and seats, but that is just how authentic roadside places are.
Final thoughts: The Dairy Mart is a well-maintained and classic-looking ice-cream stand beside the Lincoln Highway. The tenderloin is homemade, but not really anything special. This place is worth stopping in for the Ice-Cream or other menu items. There are a few restaurants in Carroll I need to check out on my next trip to this part of Iowa.

Kelly's Little Nipper in Des Moines

Sometimes known simply as Kelly's, or Kelly's Bar on Grand. This pub 'n grub in the Mexican Main Street of East Grand Avenue serves up big portions of greasy food at low prices for a working class crowd.

Location: 1701 East Grand Ave. in Des Moines.

Directions: If you get off the freeway around E. 14th and find Grand Ave. Kelly's is on the south side of the street.

The Tenderloin: This sandwich starts with about twelve ounces of pork loin, so size is not an issue here. Its pounded to get soft without being too thin. The breading is thick and crunchy, crumbs scatter all over the place. Soft edges of the sandwich are pulled off easily. Meat is white inside throughout. Served with the fixings on a large portion of soft bread cut in front of you. Overall 8.0 out of ten.

Price: $4.95

Also on the menu: The specialy is the one-pound sausage sandwich, there is also something named the Killer Burger. Onion Rings are hand breaded.

Service: you can wait at a table or booth, but its faster to go straight to the counter. Everything goes through the same tiny grill, so it can take up to half an hour to get your food at busy times.

Ambiance: This bar has been in operation for a long time, I think the sign says since 1929 or something. the age shows in the woodwork and the decades-old beer advertisements. There are booths, tables, and a counter to eat and drink. There is a picnic table in back for when the weather is warm.

Final Thoughts: This stretch of East Grand is packed with authentic Mexican restaurants, Kelly's is like a hold out here that has been around for a long time. Don't let the humble exterior fool you, this is a great place for greasy grub. Since Micheals in Beaverdale closed, this may have found itself in the rare company of the best tenderloins in the city of Des Moines.

Bonaparte Retreat in Bonaparte

Bonaparte is a small town in Southeast Iowa, and is part of the Historic Villages of Van Buren County. Van Buren County places limits on things like commercial signage, and the villages are maintained by residents to reflect the areas heritage from a time when the Des Moines River was busy with commerce, and mill towns dotted the landscape. The building that now houses this restaurant was once a grist mill powered by the river, making flour for larger markets. The town was known as Meek's Mill before being incorporated as Bonaparte.The Bonaparte Retreat has been featured in Midwest Living and The Iowan magazines.

Location: 731 1st St. in Bonaparte (population 458), Van Buren County, in Southeastern Iowa.

Directions: Bonaparte is best reached by taking Highway 2 across Southern Iowa. County Road W40 takes you 2 miles north into town. You can also take the scenic route by driving County Road J40 from Keosauqua. Its only two and a half hours drive from Des Moines.

Online At: http://bonaparteretreat.com/

The Tenderloin: This one had a shape like an oven mitt when I unwrapped it. Your get decent thickness in the cut of pork, but the meat only slightly extends beyond the bun. Softness is above average, and the meat comes apart easily. Breading adds some crunch, but not much in the way of seasoning. Served with your choice of fixings on a sesame seed bun. Overall 7.0 out of ten.

Price:$4.25 a la carte, a good value.

Also on the menu: the lunch menu is small but it has some fried vegetable appetizers along with the usual salads and sandwiches. The Dinner menu has steaks and seafood, and homemade pies for dessert.

Service: Its table service, and takes a while for food to be prepared. Watching a lady use the giant antique cash register is a plus.

Ambiance: The building oozes with atmosphere in its natural lighting and antique furnishings. There is a great view of the river, but tables near the windows fill up fast.

Final Thoughts: The setting in a historic building in the best kept historical towns in Iowa with the high ceiling of the mill, and relics of its prior incarnation, is great. Although on my next visit I will probably be to try some of the other cuts of meat on the dinner menu. I still maintain the best tenderloin I have found in Van Buren County is at Misty's Malt Shop just up the road in Keosauqua. This was a good value in a nice small town.

Roadhouse Bar & Grill in Fort Dodge

I was surprised when a website told me a new restaurant in Fort Dodge had put a super-jumbo tenderloin on the menu. It claimed to serve a full pound size tenderloin. This had previously been a size only offered at the St. Olaf Tap in Northeast Iowa. The local paper tells me that the owner of this place promotes Country music concerts, and an outdoors multimedia project including a television show, radio, and magazine. The Roadhouse Bar & Grill offers more opportunity for tie-in events.


Location: the address is listed at 217 S 25th St, inside the Crossroads Mall in Fort Dodge.


Directions: This place has two entrances at the northeast corner of the Mall, you get there by taking the Business Route of Highway 20 which is 5th Ave South in Fort Dodge.


Online at: http://www.fdroadhouse.com/


The Tenderloin: Listen on the menu as The Big Country 1 lb. Tenderloin (Huge - Bring a friend!). First things first, this thing is big. It may not have been a full sixteen ounces before breading and frying, but it felt huge and was filling. A big problem with giant tenderloins is getting the huge cuts of pork to stay consistently tender and moist after cooking. The giant cut of meat just gets too tough, dry and chewy. The breading added more than enough crunch, but most of the flavor came from the red onions underneath the bun. Some more seasonings could raise the score, but it also needs to be more tender. Overall 6.5 out of ten.

Price: $8.99 with a side of fries. Sometimes it will be on special for a dollar less with a soft drink.

Service: Its table service at the booth seats, or you can sit at the bar.


Ambiance: This location used to be a Cactus Bob's Tex-Mex restaurant, so there is wood paneling with signs. The new ownership has put up pictures of country music acts.


Also on the menu: There are burgers, the nachos look special, and the "self proclaimed best wings in the Midwest"

The naked grilled Garlic Parmesan Wings:

The lightly seasoned fries with rosemary side:
Final Thoughts: I hope this place sticks around because the wings were good. You can check out a YouTube video from a wing eating contest captured by the local paper. On my next trip through Fort Dodge, I will try to make it to the often recommended Community Tap & Pizza and try their tenderloin.

Millerton Cafe in Millerton

A dining guide for Wayne county told me to check out this cafe with a humble exterior in the small town of Millerton. I think this place was named Rose's Cafe before a renovation a year ago, and there seems to be only one other business open in town. A January day with a combination of freezing rain and dew known as Hoar Frost meant my photos were particularly colorless.


Location: 11 Highway J-22 in Millerton, population 53, in Wayne County, Southern Iowa.


Directions: The cafe is on the main street through town, County Road J-22, reached by State Highway 14 between Chariton and Corydon.
The Tenderloin: Breading was golden brown with just enough flavor to compliment the meat. The pork was steamy warm and soft to the touch. It was thicker on one side, but tender throughout. Served with fixins on a toasted bun. Overall 8.0 out of 10.
Price: $4.95

Also on the Menu: The menu is small and keeps is simple with burgers, pies and daily specials.

The Chili Cheese Fries were a nice big gloppy mess:
Service: Table service with a couple waitresses running around. I think the owner was working the counter.


Ambiance: This is a recently renovated and redone small town cafe with booth seats in one room and another dining room with tables. I think half the town was inside the cafe when I stopped in.


Final thoughts: Finding a good tenderloin in a small town always makes a sandwich lover feel good about taking detours from the beaten path. This place could use a sign on the highway, because Millerton is a small town.