BW's Burgers in West Des Moines, Iowa

A few months ago the facebook page of The Rusty Duck in Dexter announced they would open a bar and restaurant in West Des Moines named BW's Burgers Shakes & Spirits. The Rusty Duck in Dexter had once won an award from the Iowa Cattlemen for having the best burger in Iowa, and had a runner-up award from the annual IPPA tenderloin contest. I would guess that BW is the initials of the owner of the two places.

Location: 3701 EP True Parkway in West Des Moines, Iowa

Directions: This is in a strip mall with three other restaurants that haven't been here very long, you can get to EP True by taking Grand Ave. from Des Moines.

The Tenderloin: This one had a wide oval shape with a butterfly cut in the middle. I had been here before and had a different shape. Each loin I've had here has been very thick and juicy. I've heard pounding noises from the kitchen, but the texture of the meat feels undisturbed by tenderizing. The meat inside is a bright white loin meat, and the breading is a thin crunchy layer with a hint of pepper. Served on a large and soft toasted bun with your fixins. Overall 8.2 out of ten.

Price: $10.00 with a side of fries. I got mine with cheese sauce:

Menu Board

Also on the menu: The menu isn't big but has steak sandwiches and burgers and other bar foods with some specials listed on the menu board

The Ultimate Cheeseburger

The Ultimate Cheeseburger: I would guess this is similar to the burger that was awarded by the Iowa Cattlemen or Beef Association at the Rusty Duck. This is topped with peppers and onions and melted cheese cooked to your preference, I go with medium well. Served with fries for about twelve dollars.

Nachos on special

 I was in again and they had a Nachos Special on the menu board, and it was a pile of tortilla chips with Italian Sausage and melted cheese and raw jalepeno peppers. This wasn't a regular menu item and it felt like an appetizer for a group of four or more.

Service: There is a take-out counter and table service.

Ambiance: This space has had a couple restaurant tenants, the last one being a place trying to sell loosemeat burgers and hot dogs. The dining area has tables, and the patio area is open for the season.

Final Thoughts: I had been to Dexter a few times over the years, but the Rusty Duck is only open evenings and I never made it inside. If the burgers here are the same as the ones these guys serve in Dexter, then I would be interested in coming back to try one someday.

The Longest Yard in Valley Junction

The Longest Yard Sports Grill is a low key neighborhood sports bar that seems to be named for a 1974 Burt Reynolds movie. I had seen signs at this bar telling me of hand breaded tenderloins on Mondays while walking through Valley Junction in the past few years, but never made it here until a few weeks ago. I must have thaught they only serve these on Mondays, but they are on the menu every day.


Location: 122 Fifth Street in Historic Valley Junction, West Des Moines. Its between a bunch of antique stores, across from the Atomic Garage.


Directions: You get here by taking 63rd to Railroad and turning north of 5th St.

Online at: the website is down, but they have a facebook page here.


The Tenderloin: This sandwich felt like it was a good seven or eight ounces of pork in between the bun and the fixings. The pork was hot steamy white meat which had been pounded out well. The breading had just the right amount of seasonings to give a good aftertaste, along with a great crunchy texture. Served with all the fixings on a toasted bun, overall 7.84 out of ten.

Price: regularly $7.99, but on special Monday for $6.99 with a side. I opted for the homemade chips, which were tossed in seasoning salt. Tenderloin is also available grilled.
Also on the menu: Burgers, nachos, pasta, something named Hayden Chili Fries and the usual sports stuff. The drink specialty seems to be a beer served in a three foot high glass.


Service: Its table service or sit at the bar. It was attentive when I came by early on a Monday, the food takes a while to prepare.
Ambiance: This is a Hawkeye Bare with photos of visits from Jim Zabel and autographed stuff from former Hawks. The place feels like a small town bar with high ceilings, exposed brick and woodwork, and dim lights.


Final Thoughts: This is an okay sports bar with an above average tenderloin. Its like visiting a small town pub and grub right in West Des Moines. My eternal quest for new and untried breaded pork tenderloins had always failed to find them in West Des Moines. The local Maid Rite around the corner, Paula's, had a sign advertising a tenderloin as "Best in the Junction" but would serve up a frozen preformed loin. Maddy's used to serve a good tenderloin in this neighborhood before moving out by Jordan Creek. I am still looking for undocumented tenderloins in and around Des Moines, if anyone can let me know, leave a comment somewhere on the blog.

Gateway Market and Cafe in West Des Moines

The Gateway Market is a high-end grocery store with the best selection of rare cheese and wine, and local meat and produce. It has classes and cooking events listed on its website. Its founder, local super-chef George Formaro, recently had two of his restaurants finish in the top three of a local best restaurant poll. His success has brought countless praise from far and wide, getting the offerings from the Gateway Market Cafe mentioned in Esquire and Bon Apetit magazines. In addition to that, he eats tenderloins and serves them at his restaurants. I had to make it to the new location of Gateway Market in West Des Moines to check out his take on this sandwich.

Special note: I ate this at the Gateway Market West location, but right now its only listed on the online menu for the Des Moines location. So if you take the directions, you won't find a tenderloin sandwich when you get there, at least for now.

Location: 520 Market St in West Des Moines, inside the Villages at Ponderosa development.

Directions: Take the Mills Civic Parkway exit from I-35, turn north on 60th St.

Online at: http://gatewaymarket.com/

The Tenderloin: First things first, I usually prefer giant messy and greasy tenderloins to these types of small gourmet sandwiches. I think the Augusta in Oxford did a better job with high-quality ingredients. I hope the breading close-up pictures come through with good resolution, because its finely applied with visible seasonings and no extra grease or chunks falling off. The presentation is about as good as you could ask for, with sliced pickles and shredded lettuce, and bumps the score up a little. Served on a fresh bun from Formaro's South Union Bakery. Overall 7.0 out of ten.

Price: $7.95 a la carte.
Also on the Menu: The Gateway Market has a wide selection of high end stuff, freshly prepared Ramen Noodles, BBQ smoked sandwiches, gourmet burgers, and fish tacos. The west location has a pizza oven.

Service: Well groomed servers take your order at the counter and bring your food to your table.

Ambiance: This place is right at home in the affluent and luxurious side of West Des Moines. There are huge windows with a view of a fountain from the dining area.

Final thoughts: My previous entries have been about the typical small town pub and grubs like the Peru Bar and Grill, or Fat Randi's in Van Meter. The Gateway Market is close to a polar opposite of those two places, and its located not too far away. I like to think of the Breaded Pork Tenderloin as the people's sandwich. This upscale form of the sandwich isn't my thing, and I usually get the fish 'n chips when I visit.
Update: It has come to my attention that two of Formaro's restaurants do serve tenderloins. I think he also once gave an interview to the Des Moines Register claiming to frequent tenderloin establishments like George the Chili King and B&B Brocery and Deli. I went ahead and cut and pasted some descriptions from the respective menu pages.

From Centro:
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