Raceway Cafe in Newton, Iowa

I had driven past the Raceway Motor Sports Cafe a few times but then I noticed a banner reading "Biggest and Best Tenderloin in Town." The racing themed sports bar has been open here since 2012 but hasn't been open on the previous times I've driven through on a Sunday or Monday.

Location: 2331 1st Ave East in Newton, Jasper County, Central Iowa. Its about 35 minutes drive from Des Moines on I-80.

Directions: You can take Main St east from downtown or take the exit from the race track and go north to Main St.

The Tenderloin: The first thing you notice here is the size. It feels like a good eight ounces pounded into a shape that doesn't quite fit into the to-go box.  The very thin meat was dry on one half and only a little moist in the middle. The breading formed a crunchy and crackerlike layer that had little or no seasoning. Served with your fixings on an untoasted bun. Overall 7.5 out of ten.

Price: $8.95 with a side

Also on the menu: There are burgers and bar foods like chicken wings, but also Italian dishes like pizza or grinders or daily specials.

Service: I ordered take out from the bar but there is table service also.

Ambiance: It was too dark to take pictures inside, but there is table and booths for seating, and a bar and patio when its warm outside. There is racing gear and beer signs on the walls and flatscreen televisions to watch sports.

Final Thoughts: This is the second tenderloin that I have eaten in Newton this year after trying the Midtown Cafe in the center of town. This tenderloin was better than the one at Midtown, but I am still looking for anything really exceptional in Newton and I haven't found it.

Midtown Cafe in Newton Iowa

 A lot of places have come and gone over the years in Newton but this little place with the words CAFE visible on the square has been around for as long as I can recall. This is an older diner that specializes in burgers and breakfasts that had a bunch of families eating here when I visited.

Location: 120 1st St North in Newton, Jasper County in Central Iowa.

Directions: this is on the East side of the square across the street from the County Courthouse.

Online at: facebook page is HERE.

The Tenderloin: The description simply states that this sandwich is big enough for two. This came with two buns and a side along with the fixings. The first thing is that this is big and well bigger than the usual eight ounces that most places describe as "jumbo". The problem was that this seemed to lack moisture inside and the edges were especially dry. The middle had some good white pork loin meat that was soft enough to chew through easily. The breading was crunchy but not tasty and the whole thing felt like too much time in the freezer had sucked the moisture out. Overall 7.0 out of ten.

Price: $8.99 with a side

Also on the menu: Diner food classics like burgers or sandwiches. There is a full breakfast selection with an dish named The Annihilator, and more than one food challenge.

Service: its seat yourself table service with tables and booths and a counter in the back.

Ambiance: This is an old space with old fixtures and furniture in an old building known as The Midtown Building.

Final Thoughts: I had driven through Newton so many times over the years that I couldn't count. but finding a good tenderloin has eluded me. I had tried an old diner beside the Maid Rite, and I wanted to stop at a racing themed bar on the East side of town. But that place was closed on a Sunday when I was driving through, like how many racing themed bars are closed on Sunday? I remember when there was an Argentine steakhouse called Gauchos just a block of the square and I never made it in and now its been gone for ten years now.

Goldie's Ice Cream Shoppe in Prairie City

In the few short years since this space was turned into Goldie's Ice Cream Shoppe, it has been featured in a Des Moines Register article about small town ice cream stands, then KCCI TV had their Cruising For Comfort Food feature visit here. Last October, the Iowa Pork Producers Association gave Goldies its coveted and prestigious Best Tenderloin in Award. The owner, Brad Magg, created his own catering company when he was still in High School. Since then he has taken over the ice cream shop, been elected to the City Council of nearby Colfax, and promoted a Demolition Derby all before turning 24 years old. His next step could be world domination, or perhaps an even bigger demolition derby.

Location: 304 W 2nd St in Prairie City, about 18 miles east of Des Moines in Jasper County, Central Iowa.

Directions: You take East University from Des Moines, it turns into Highway 163 and Goldies is just past Casey's from the Prairie City exit.

Online at: There is a facebook page

Award Winning Tenderloin

The Tenderloin: This has to be at least eight ounces after cooking. The lightly seasoned breading forms some gigantic crumbs on the edges. The meat is very tender with a consistent texture. According to the IPPA press release, the pork loin is cut and tenderized at the meat department at Fareway in Pleasant Hill. Served with all the fixings on a large untoasted bun. Overall 8.63 out of ten.

Mingo Special with Italian Sausage

The Mingo Special: this is made with seasoned Italian Sausage from the Mingo Locker, and a slice of provolone cheese on top. I had trouble trying to eat one of these while driving, the sausage was all over the place.

Magg Combo

The Magg Combo: This is a tenderloin topped with a cheeseburger. The ground beef is from the nearby family farm run by the Magg family, processed at the Mingo Locker. This one works better as a sandwich than the other combo deal. Each one gets a good melt job on top of the beef.

Price: $5.50 for the regular tenderloin a la carte, or $7.75 for one of the combo sandwiches. The prices haven't changed since at least 2008.

Also on the menu: There are daily specials to go with the usual burgers and salads, a full ice cream selection. The feature dessert item seems to be the Suicide Twister. The drive-thru window sells coffee in the morning. The menu used to have a note reading "we sell farm raised steaks!"

The PC Dog: This is a cheese stuffed hot dog wrapped in bacon:

PC Dog

The Chili Cheese Fries: these came in a little bowl. For a small extra price you can get lightly battered "Goldies Fries".

The Fried Cauliflower: I never forget the vegetables.

The Tenderloin Strips: This was described on the menu as a tenderloin without a bun, cut into strips. I guess this is for people allergic to buns, or on low carb diet plans:

Tenderloin Strips

Service: Its table service with mostly old ladies waiting tables. There is a walk-up window and drive-thru for ice cream orders. In the mornings this place serves coffee, PC PERK, from the drive-thru window.


Ambiance: Its not much from the outside, but the interior is brighter with the classic ice cream shop look, and specials written on a chalkboard. There are a few booths and tables, plus a counter for seating. When the weather is good you can sit at picnic tables outside. Since the IPPA award last fall, its been tough to get a place to sit.

Final Thoughts: I put this place on my own list of the best tenderloins near Des Moines after trying the two sandwiches that were tenderloins with toppings. I've seen the owner a few times running around the kitchen, and understand he is an advocate of small towns in Iowa. As a general rule, I think you get a better sandwich experience in the small town cafes and places like this then at any big or expensive restaurant in Des Moines. I recommend picking up the Magg Combo to anyone on the road to Pella.

Update April 2011:
Goldies was featured on the second season of IPTV's Iowa's Simple Pleasures, the above screengrab is the former owner and founder, Golda.
Check out the video here.
Or visit the show page:
http://www.iptv.org/simplepleasures/default.cfm

Iowa's Best Burger Cafe in Kellogg

This burger place inside a gas station is not humble. They think their burgers are the best in Iowa. they also serve a homemade tenderloin, so a detour from the highway was in order after a recent visit to Kellogg.

Location: At intersection of I-80 and State Highway 224, just south of Kellogg, Iowa.

Directions: Exit the Interstate at Exit 173, turn north at "Burgers, T Loins, Camping" sign.
The tenderloin: For the small price you get a small tenderloin. The edges barely get past the bun. the inside is moist with juicy pork. The breading has a pinch of pepper that adds just the right amount of flavor. This is one of the better small cuts of pork loin you will find. Overall 6.5 out of 10.

Price: $3.19

Also on the menu: burgers, obviously, from a broiler oven. There is also ice-cream and chicken.

Service: Its counter service with one counter for gas and food customers.

Ambiance: Cramped interior with shelves between counter and booths. Beef jerky seems to be everywhere. Picnic tables with birds eating crumbs are outside. Sign outside reads "free restrooms".

Final Thoughts: Its too bad I don't eat hamburgers. This is an okay small tenderloin. The place has classic gas station atmosphere. Its also very close to the highway. However, I don't think I will be spending the night here anytime soon.

Snook Inn Sandwich Shop in Newton

A trip through Jasper County involves navigating past a highway off ramp filled with all the fast-food you can imagine. But a mile past this is a town square with a few independent restaurants that hold out in this economic downtrodden town. Snook Inn has been in operation since 1939, next door to an old fashioned independent Maid-Rite. It had a sign in the front for "homemade tenderloins", so I decided to stop in.


Location: 221 1st Ave. East in Newton, about 40 minutes drive East from Des Moines.

Directions: turn north from Interstate off ramp, drive past gas stations and fast food. Turn right on First Ave. and Snook Inn is one block before the town square.

The Tenderloin: The first thing I noticed here was that it was not very tender. This may have been intentional, or perhaps the tenderizer may have taken the day off. There were drips of pork juice on the plate when I lifted up the sandwich. I actually like the amount of pork flavor in this one, and having to chew so much to get it was not a problem for me. The breading was light and did not produce any crumbs at all partly because of the steamy moisture coming out of the white meat. Parts were very thick, with small amounts of fat on the outer edges. Served on a bun with chopped onions and mustard. 7.5/10 .

Price: $4.50 Also on the Menu: Burgers, sandwiches, salads and a full breakfast menu.

Service: I was here after the lunch rush, only one waitress was working the counter with a cook in the back.
Ambiance: The full size windows let natural light into the shop. The walls are wood panelling covered with fliers and posters. Its low-key.


Final Thoughts: Newton has become the poster child of the "new economy" in Iowa. The Snook Inn was once a favorite lunch spot for local factory workers. The Maytag plant closings have led to local government begging any business to take their incentives and relocate here. The exodus of working class people and adjustment to more service sector jobs puts these independent lunch counters in a difficult spot. The main road to downtown has as much traffic as ever, but how many people are stopping for this great sandwich.