Smokin' G's BBQ Restaurant in Marshalltown, Iowa

I've had some mixed luck when it comes to finding a good tenderloin in Marshalltown. Cecil's Cafe had left me unimpressed a long time ago, then I tried a sports bar inside a hotel by the highway that didn't impress me either. The latest contender is Smokin' G's BBQ Restaurant, open since last year in the main street area a block from the courthouse.

Location: 25 W Main St in Marshalltown, about 45 minutes northeast of Des Moines.

Directions: Taking Highway 330 from Des Moines to Highway 30 into Marshalltown, turn north and drive to the courthouse and turn left to find Smokin' G's.

Online at: website is HERE.

The Tenderloin: This had a decent half pound size pork loin in a roughly triangular shape. The inside was darker loin meat with a good amount of juiciness. I picked up a hint of pepper and seasonings in the breading, but there wasn't any real crunch on this one. Served with all the fixins pinned down with a toothpick. Overall 7.3 out of ten.

Price: $9.95 with a side, but its a special on Tuesday with a drink and side for $9.50

Also on the menu: The huge menu starts with bbq meats, sandwiches, burgers, wraps, and fried appetizers. They even have a couple eating challenges.

Service: Its full service with a hostess and seating at tables and booths. The lunch rush crowd meant the food and check took some time when I visited.

Ambiance: This is a main st building with a recent renovation into a BBQ spot with western themed decorations.

Final Thoughts: I think my next stop in Marshalltown should be the 13th St Inn if its still open, it had a "for sale" sign on its facebook page so I don't know whats going on there. Maybe I need to go to the Haverhill Social Club just south of Marshalltown too.

Claxons Smokehouse in Altoona, Iowa

8th St in Altoona used to be a classic restaurant comparison street with two places serving the same kind of food. Altoona was once divided between Kin Folks patrons on one side, and Claxon's patrons on the other. Time has passed and Kin Folks is no more, and Claxon's has built itself a new building while 8th street has slowly filled with more chain restaurants in between the strip malls.

Location: 3131 8th St SW in Altoona, Eastern Suburbs of Des Moines, Central Iowa.

Directions: You take Hubbell Ave out of Des Moines and turn right at some intersection just beyond city limits to reach 8th St in Altoona.

Online At: Facebook page is HERE.

The Tenderloin: This sandwich and the plate it came on were really heavy, like cargo crane worthy between the huge fries and the sandwich. The problem with the meat was that it had been cut into a large portion but hadn't been tenderized or pounded out to soften the inside. Biting into this was tough and chewy compared to nearly every other tenderloin out there. Served on a giant flour-dusted bun that may be better suited to large amounts of smoked meats and dripping bbq sauce. Overall 7.0 out of ten.

Price: Its $9.99 with one side, but the menu said another side was just $2.00 more for a total of $11.99 and then I couldn't help myself from trying two sides after reading that. Funny how that works.


Also on the menu: The menu is big and based on smoked meats first with other options added to round it out for other tastes. The ribs were listed as one of the 100 Things to Eat in Iowa Before You Die by the Des Moines register back in 2006. I was impressed by the slightly misnamed "Fried Corn" side dish. It was corn, but not fried. It had brisket bits that were deeply softened from hours of cooking. A lot of BBQ places in Iowa get away with stiff brisket but this was deeply soft in texture:

"Fried Corn"

Service: I came in on the off hours and just ate at the bar and was attended to with no delay.

Ambiance: This is not Claxon's first building, although I never made it to the old one. This space has high vaulted ceilings and is split between a dining area with tables and booths and wide windows, and bar area covered in sports and beer signs.

Final Thoughts: I was optimistic about my visit to Claxon's but the sandwich only reminded me that tenderizing is an important part of making tenderloins and tenderness is key to their enjoyment. I will probably return to try the ribs or other bbq items soon.

Vinny's BBQ in Dakota City, Iowa

Pulling Pork Since 2005

Vinny's BBQ in Dakota City has been on my radar since the IPPA named it the first runner-up in their 2012 Best Tenderloin in Iowa contest. The people behind Vinny's BBQ also built the "World's Largest Pork Burger" at the 2012 World Pork Expo in Des Moines. There is a video on youtube of the burger being unveiled from a large cooking pot.

Location: 507 Main St in Dakota City, Humboldt County in Northern Iowa.

Directions: Its right up the road from Rustix in Humboldt, which recently switched to being a reception hall instead of a restaurant.

Online at: Facebok page is HERE.

The Tenderloin: First things first this wasn't especially big or huge and the bun wasn't toasted well. So appearances were not impressive. What really sets this tenderloin apart isn't just the amount of juice, but the flavor in the juice. Any kind of seasoning or marinade must have been tuned to get this to taste "swiney", the unmistakable essence of pork flavor. I don't know how they do it, but the juice tastes more like pork than other tenderloins out there.Overall 8.0 out of ten.

Price: 5.79 with a side of fries.

Also on the menu: The BBQ section includes smoked meats and ribs, and the sandwiches include a Pork Burger and Pork Chop sandwich.

Smoked Pork Chop, Pork Burger, Pork Tenderloin, I guess they like pork.

Service: There is table or counter service, but I think you always pay at the counter.

Ambiance: This is a Main St. brick building, and it looks like the original counter and booth area has been expanded to include two more table seating areas. The walls are covered with John Deere tractor stuff, kids drawings, and BBQ competition awards.

Final Thoughts: This is a great option for people traveling through now that Rustix has switched to a reception venue.I may have to stop back for the other pork options, because it seems clear these people are passionate about pork.

Its a Pickup Truck crowd.

Smokey D's BBQ just north of Des Moines

Smokey D's is the BBQ and catering empire that grew out of a competitive BBQ team run by a central Iowa native that has won trophy after trophy across the country. The catering empire used to be based from a warehouse just north of here, with a walk-up counter and waiting area cluttered with competition trophies just sitting on the floor. The new location opened up around the same time the owner's BBQ team "A Boy and his BBQ" won the final round of BBQ Pitmasters on the TLC Channel. Later last year, a local food writer named the partners who operate Smokey D's as Restauranteurs of the Year in Des Moines.

Location: 5055 NW 2nd Street in Saylor Township just north of Des Moines.


Directions: Its right north of the 2nd St. offramp of I-80 on the north side of Des Moines beside the Harley Davidson Big Barn.


Online at: their website is here.

The Tenderloin: I have had three of these and each has come in a different shape. The pictured one has the classic butterfly cut into something resembling a "mitten". The mass feels like a little over eight ounces, and be too large to fit in a usual to-go container. Served with pickles and onions on a toasted bun. The breading feels like some fine bread crumbs, and forms a consistent texture that I hope is visible in the close-up photo. You can see little bits of seasoning above the white pork loin. The meat itself is chewy tender, with a good amount of juice inside. Let the record show that I prefer my tenderloins with Russ & Frank's Fiery BBQ Sauce under the bun. Overall 8.27 out of ten.

Price: $5.69 a la carte

The Farm Boy: This is best described as a breaded pork tenderloin with two slices of bread, about a pound of seasoned fries, smothered in gravy, and topped with bacon and cheese. The fries have a ton of salt thrown on top of them, and the flour in the gravy makes the whole thing just a little too thick with mountains of fried potato getting in the way of the tenderloin. By the time you are done digging and find the loin inside, your taste buds are basically dead. Served on a platter. It bears a slight resemblance to the "horseshoe" sandwiches of Springfield Illinois, which are built on slices of white bread topped with french fries and a melted cheese sauce. I simply can't recommend this thing to anyone.

Price: $12.79, listed on the BIG D section of the Menu.

Also on the menu: The menu stars with the BBQ basics of pulled pork, brisket, ribs with the usual sides. The new location has expanded the offerings with fried stuff, and a daily comfort food special.
Ribs come in a platter with a half rack and two sides for a low price of $11.99. The dry rub adds enough flavor on the surface to avoid needing any sauce.

The Mac and Cheese takes a pretty basic mixture but pumps in something like the same spice mixture found on the Garlic Bread or in the dry rub and other parts of the menu.

I really don't know why they decided to bread the wings they are smoked and fried before saucing. They come in three varieties, even though there are five different BBQ sauces at each table. The ranch dip tasted like they added something to the regular spices.

Service: Order at the counter after waiting in line, which passes a bunch of trophies and a signed picture of Guy Fieri. The food is brought to your table. There is a separate entrance and counter for to-go orders.
Ambiance: As recently as two years ago, this building was a dump of epic proportions known as Stagecoach Spaces with a busted sign visible for miles. It was rented out for events like poker tournaments, and I think I know someone who went to a rave with techno music, glowsticks, and lasers lights here. The renovation has been enormous, as parts of the building were falling apart. Half of the building is a Harley Davidson retail space. The dining area has a full bar along with counter seating, booths, tables and flatscreen televisions visible from any angle. Honestly I preferred the walk-up old location with the picnic tables outside in the gravel parking lot.
Final Thoughts: There is a long list of Championship Competitive BBQ masters who have failed to translate their success into operating a restaurant. Its also no secret that the Central Iowa BBQ Restaurant scene is a little crowded right now, with over thirty restaurants advertising their offerings as "BBQ". Smokey D's has grown over the years, and the new location is a big expansion from the last incarnation. My visits to the new location have found more people in line than actually sitting down and eating. I hope the highway crowds keep coming for the BBQ and the tenderloin.

Cactus Bob's BBQ Corral in Johnston

Updated Winter 2013, scroll down for subsequent visit notes!

Cactus Bob's is probably the most serious BBQ place in suburban Des Moines, they have seven in-house varieties of super-hot BBQ sauce. Their BBQ meats are refrigerated after smoking and reheated upon ordering, done to a scientific method outlined by their state of the art smoking machine. Nearly everything on the menu, including the french fries and potato chips, is homemade. Recently, a tenderloin special was added, so I had to check it out.

Location: 5955 Merle Hay Road in Johnston, Iowa. Just north of Des Moines.

Directions: go north from Merle Hay a few miles past the freeway. Cactus Bob's is in a strip mall close to Van Dee's Ice Cream.

Online At: http://www.cactusbobs.com/

The Tenderloin: The breading was like a thick batter but thoroughly cooked with a hint of pepper flavor. It formed a skin that was dry and crunchy on the edges. The meat was white and more tender than the other tenderloins from BBQ places in Des Moines. Served on a bun and ready for BBQ sauce. This was a tasty tenderloin 8.0 out of ten.

Price: It came in a basket with a side and a drink for $7.50

Also on the Menu: A full selection of BBQ favorites including beef brisket, pork ribs, and chicken. Sides are made fresh, and Cactus Bob's own pickle mix, jerky, and BBQ sauce are available for sale.

Service: Its just counter service with your number called when your order is ready. It can take a while to get your food when busy.

Ambiance: Its a suburban strip mall location with tables to sit, and a large dining area decorated with Texas-themed junk.

Final thoughts: This is a special place in the chain-food restaurant dominated suburbs. They have a contest where if you eat a brisket sandwich dipped in the hottest of sauces in less than 10 minutes without water, you get your money back and a picture on their wall of fame. If they did this with the tenderloin I may have to give it a try, because nothing involving tenderloins has ever scared me.





Update Winter 2013

I made it back a few times to try some of the other items on the menu. The last few years have seen this place expand into the retail bay next door for a vastly larger dining area. The BBQ sauce and General Store setups seem to be a bit larger. The dining area is decorated with hot sauce bottles, but the tacky western stuff dominates the rest of the interior.

The ribs were reasonably prices at around $15 with a couple sides. These had a tasty dry rub and good texture on the different parts of the ribs. Some areas were a little dry but I liked the firmness off the meat for the most part. I can't stand places that serve these too tender and falling off the bone.

The mac and cheese feels like a basic recipe where they add some bread crumbs on top. I wasn't impressed here, and would go with another side next time.

The hand cut french fries are deeply crunchy and feel like they have been fried more than once to reach their deep brown color. They add a bunch of salt on top when you order, but you can shake it off and dip them in BBQ sauce.

Shane's Rib Shack in Clive

Shane's Rib Shack is a chain of BBQ restaurants founded in Georgia, each has a photo of their smiling fat guy founder, Shane, posted inside. I was quite surprised to see their window advertising homemade tenderloins while driving through Clive, so I decided to stop in and give it a try.

Location: 12695 University Ave. in Clive, Iowa.

Directions: Take University Ave in West Des Moines to the intersection with Granite City and Biaggi's, look for this place in the strip mall behind Walgreen's.

Online at: http://www.shanesofiowa.com/
The Tenderloin: This was something new. The bright white cut of pork was not tenderized at all, just cut across the grain. It was tough to bite into at first, but fell apart with chewing. The thin cut of pork was floppy when lifted off the food basket, with the meat was thinnest at the center. Breading was lightly seasoned southern-fried chicken tasting crunchiness. The selection of BBQ sauces to top the sandwich were a plus. Served on a toasted bun with all the fixings 6.7 out of ten.

Price: $5.49

Also on the menu: Southern style BBQ favorites like Chopped Pork, Beef Brisket, and Ribs, sides including a thick stew and fried okra.

Service: Counter service with food brought to your table.
Ambiance: Over-done decorations for someplace in the suburbs. Tables and booths to sit and watch sports on TV. A bright multi-colored interior with BBQ shack decorations.

Final Thoughts: I am encouraged by this menu addition by the local franchise of a Southern BBQ chain. In order to make the tenderloin better, they need to tenderize it first. Its a good option in the tenderloin desert that exists in the suburbs of any big city in Iowa.